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Butte County Community GMRS
  • Home
  • CRITICAL INFO
  • Repeater Info
  • Important Forms
  • Standard GMRS Terms
  • Battery Backup
  • Net Control OPS
  • Contact
  • Hot Links
  • CodeRed & Alert FM

Radio Communication Equipment

Battery-Back-Up Power for GMRS

In these days of instant communications, we seem to rely on our cordless and cell  phones, HTs and mobile rigs for our communications needs. One item we always  seem to forget right as an emergency happens is a power source. When the lights  go out, the chargers we use to charge our HTs, and cell phones no longer function.   


Depending upon how severe the outage is, the cells and landlines might be dead  also. You cannot remember the last time you recharged the battery for your HT, so  its operating time is unknown. The lights and phones are dead, the flashlights just  barely work, and you cannot communicate with other hams in your community or  the outside world because your ham station is dead also.   


Virtually all-modern GMRS radio gear is designed to operate on 12 volts, making  operation possible from exceptionally reliable, heavy-duty batteries. Yet, battery  backup is under appreciated and underutilized by amateurs probably because of a  lack of familiarity and the supposed difficulty or expense of obtaining suitable  batteries.  


As useful and versatile as batteries are, building a battery back-up system requires  a little care and planning. Many believe their GMRS HTs are a good battery  backup for when the power goes out. Not so. HTs are notoriously unreliable into  repeaters, have exceptionally low output power and marginal antennas. If you live  in a wooded areas or mountains, these like to eat RF. Some even think an old  automobile battery with a dubious history, stuck under the operating desk,  constitutes a battery backup system for their ham station. Well, not exactly.   


What Is a Battery?  


We all know what a battery is…. it is that thing that goes dead in your wonderful  electronic devices when you least expect it! There is a little more to it than that, so  perhaps a review of battery basics is in order here.   


A battery is an electrical storage device. Batteries do not make electricity; they  store it, just as a water tank stores water for future use.   


As chemicals in the battery change, electrical energy is stored or released. In  rechargeable batteries this process can be repeated many times. Batteries are not  100% efficient --- some energy is lost as heat and chemical reactions when  charging and discharging. The most efficient batteries are slow charging, slow  discharging. Batteries are divided in two ways, by application (what they are used  for) and construction (how they are built). The three major applications are  automotive, marine and deep-cycle and all are flooded cell batteries. Selecting the  correct batterie(s) is all about lifespan. Its lifespan will vary considerably with how  it is used, how it is maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors.   


Automotive Battery starting batteries; are normally used to start and run engines.  Engine starters need a large starting current for a noticeably short time. Starting  batteries have many thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are  composed of lead “sponge”, similar in appearance to a fine foam sponge. This  gives a large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be damaged  and will fall to the bottom of the cells or cause bulging on the sides of the casing.   


Marine Batteries many are “hybrid”, and fall between the starting and deep cycle,  while a few are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of lead  sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in stating batteries. It is often  hard to tell what you are getting in a “marine” battery, but most are a hybrid.  “Hybrid” types should not be discharged more than 50%.  


Deep Cycle Batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80%  repeatedly and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep  cycle battery and others is that the plates are solid lead plates --- not sponge.  Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what kind of battery you are really  buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive  batteries.   


There are two sizes, which will work very well for ham radio application, Group  24, and Group 27. These are the same groups that you might have in your car or  truck. Group 24 will provide between 70-85 Amp Hour capacity, Group 27  between 85-105 Amp-Hour.   These batterie(s) are rated in Amp/Hours. Amp/Hour rating of a battery capacity is  calculated by multiplying the current (in amperes) by time (in hours) the current is  drawn. This rating will vary from battery manufacturers. For example:   


A battery which can deliver 4 amperes for 20 hours before being discharged  would have an 80 amp-hour battery rating (4 X 20= 80).   


Selecting the Right Battery 


If you plan to have a GMRS rig on the air, a single deep cycle battery (Group 24)  should suffice. Adding more 12V radios might stretch the capability of that single  battery; you would be better off incorporating two 24’s. If you plan to use 2  batteries The batteries should all be from the same group, and the same age.  Look for the month/year sticker on the top of the battery. A new battery connected  to an older battery will soon be drawn down to the level of the older battery and  therefore will not last as long. Maintenance free are flooded cell batteries, they are  simply a standard flooded cell battery with sealed cells.    


If you chose to use automotive batteries, you will have to add some extra hard  wear. Automotive batteries come with standard on top battery posts or side  mounts. The side mounts make it difficult to attach wires to, the top mounts are  preferred one’s to use.  


You can get the top-mounts at any battery store and fit over the standard posts of  the automotive battery and have a 3/8-inch threaded stud with wing nut attached;  the newer deep cycle batteries will have both fittings.   


Decisions and Everything in its Place  


As with everything you have in your house, it would be a good idea to find a good  place in your home where you are going to put the battery(s). If you have your  radio in the garage, no problem; they can go anywhere without a concerned look  from your wife, girlfriend or significant other.   


However, if it’s in the house, there are some precautions you might want to  undertake before you start this project.   Remember, your station is your cubby hole, but it’s in her house! Find a place  where the battery(s) will fit and be out of the way and accessible so you can check  the fluid levels.   I suggest placing your battery(s) in plastic marine battery boxes; this will look  nicer than the naked batteries sitting on her carpet or hardwood floors and will  show her that you were concerned about taking every safety & appearance  precaution that you could think of. You’ll score points on safety and appearance  issues.   


Wiring It Up  


I suggest using Red/Black Zip Cord. The reason for this is simple: You cannot be  confused which is the positive and the negative. If you use regular brown lamp zip  cord, you might get them confused and it might lead to fried wires or even a fire if  you connect them to the wrong terminals.   I use the 12-gauge Red/Black Zip Cord* this would be your best bet for your  GMRS station. It’s made of 65/30 stranded copper wires and rated at 20 amps. I  also suggest using the Red/Black Anderson Powerpole 30Amp* connector to  connect your rig and batteries. They are genderless, easy to put together, the  contact pins should be crimped to the wire, not soldered them. The red/black color  combination is the best connector I have found for 12 DC operation. The next step  you will be doing is wiring all the batterie(s) together. This is not as difficult as  you might think it is.   To make this job neat and clean you will need some 10-12-ring terminals **. The  12 gauge will fit this terminal and I suggest you solder the wire to the ring  terminal. These terminals come with a coating protecting the copper. Scrap the  coating off so you expose the bare copper; it will make soldering much easier.   Depending how many batteries you have, you’ll need 4 to connect 2 batteries, 2 for  the charger, 2 for each radio you plan to use. Make sure your wiring harness  between the batteries is long enough so the tops of the battery boxes will fit on the  battery box.   Check your wiring with a VOM to make sure soldering and connections are good  before you attach it to your batteries.   


If you have 2 batteries, you will want to wire up all your batteries in  PARALLEL. Connect the positive (red) wire of one battery to the positive of  the second battery. Do the same with the negative (black) wire, negative to  negative.   


This will give you 12 volts, and the current rating total of two batteries you have  connected, so if you have 2 Group 24 batteries rated at 130 Amp/Hrs.; you’ll have  260 Amp/Hrs. with the Group 27’s at 12 volts. Again, check your voltage before  you connect them to your radios.  


Maintaining and Charging your Batteries  


In order to get the most from your battery backup system, you can’t just forget  them now and expect them to work for you forever. If you have battery(s) that  require electrolyte, it is especially important to take good care of them and  maintain the fluid levels. You must keep an eye on the electrolyte level in the  batteries. Low electrolyte levels cause most premature failures. Electrolyte is lost  whenever the batteries are charged and discharged heavily. You should check the  level in each cell of your batteries on a regular basis and keep the fluid above the  plates. I recommend at least once a month, more often depending on usage and  how you charge them.   To replenish the electrolyte, add distilled water only as required. I suggest using a  turkey baster to add the distilled water. Never add acid. Do not use tap water! It  contains chemical and mineral impurities and will kill your batteries prematurely.  To keep your batteries in working order, you have got to keep them charged. A  Battery Maintainer with a 1.5 to 2.0-amp charge rate should be adequate. The  battery maintainer with current-limiting capabilities will charge the battery when it  gets low, charge them to around 13.8, and then shut off. Most of these have  indicator lights (green and red) tell you when the battery(s) are charged. To make  sure your batteries are charged every day, use automatic on/off timer.   


New Kids on the Block  


Within the past few years there is a new type of batteries on the market.  Absorbed  Glass Mat batteries or AGM batteries, became popular in the 1980s. They were  used to power motorcycles, military, aircraft, and submarines, but now you can  find them in everyday cars and trucks. 


AGM batteries are a maintenance free alternative to traditional flooded lead-acid  batteries. They are designed to provide powerful bursts of starting amps and run  electronics for a longer period of time. An AGM battery(s) contains a special glass  mat separator that wicks the electrolyte solution between the battery plates. This  material’s design enables the fiberglass to be saturated with electrolyte and to store  the electrolyte in a “dry” or suspended state rather than in free liquid form.  


As the battery works, electrolyte is transferred from the glass mat to battery plates  as required. The glass mat contains enough electrolyte for the battery to deliver its  full capacity and should the battery case become damaged or the battery is tipped  on its side its electrolyte will not spill.   


To Full Charge  


The battery backup system and hardware I have described to you in this article has  been in use for emergency power for part of my GMRS station since February  2021. I no longer have the flooded-cell batteries in my shack and have switched to  single AGM battery.   


I keep a GMRS & 2/440 radio connected to the AGM battery as my emergency  power system to a RiGrunner 4007U and I can easily connect my HF rig to the  RiGRunner when necessary, I also included a Duracell Ultra charger.  


Some of the items I have mentioned can be obtained locally, the Anderson  Powerpoles and 12-gauge Red/Black cable can be purchased from Powerwerx*.        Whether you select the flooded-cells or the AGM batteries, I suggest you go to a  vendor who specializes in batteries and accessories. You will get professional  advice from people who know their products and can answer any questions you  have.  


A battery backup power system may be just what you need to keep your GMRS  and other 12VDC radios you have incorporated in your station going when  emergencies arise, and when the commercial power fails.   


Stephen McDermott, WRFW673   


* Powerwerx.com  ** Home Depot or Ace Hardware   

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